BUNKER BEVERAGES: THE EMERGENCY GUIDE TO MAKING Alcohol!

(FIRST 10 pAGES)

 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction........................................................................................................................ 2

The Basic Batch................................................................................................................. 4

Distillation Theory............................................................................................................. 6

The Still.............................................................................................................................. 7

Safety Factors During Distillation..................................................................................... 8

Important Notes to Think About........................................................................................ 9

Running the Still.............................................................................................................. 14

Repairing the Still……………………………………………………………………… 17

Reflux Column Distillation Units.................................................................................... 18

Reflux Still Setup and Operation..................................................................................... 20

Still Construction 10-Gallon Model................................................................................. 21

Miniature or Portable Still System................................................................................... 23

Aging................................................................................................................................ 26

General Brewing Information (Beer, Wines, Bourbon, Etc.).......................................... 28

Flavoring and Making Liquors........................................................................................ 30

Appendix A: Strength and Source of Fermented Alcoholic Beverages.......................... 31

Appendix B: Strength and Source of Distilled Alcoholic Beverages.............................. 32

Appendix C: Strength and Source of Compounded Alcoholic Beverages...................... 35

Appendix D: Basic Mash for Distilling Natural Spirits................................................... 35

 

INTRODUCTION

 

Many of us around the world have growing concerns about the crises humanity may face in very near future, setting the stage for pursuits of independence from current supply chains. In this treatise, we will present the most effective method for producing intoxicants that are safe and pleasant to consume, The goal, naturally, is ethyl alcohol, or C₂H₅OH, the only base or stock from which good drinking whiskey, and other liquor, is made. In fact, ethyl alcohol is rapidly oxidized in the body to carbon dioxide and water, and no cumulative effect occurs. In this manual, we will combine the most useful chemical and technological information with “homespun” procedures. And we will keep the data simple and understandable. Reference is made to Chemistry and Technology of Wines and Liquors, by Herstein and Jacobs. Excerpts from this book are within quotation marks.

 

General Conditions of Alcoholic Fermentation

The inescapable requirements are fermentable sugar, water, the presence of a ferment (yeast), and a favorable temperature, usually between 75 and 80° and never over 90°F. Concentration of sugar (2 pounds per gallon), yeast, and the acidity pH of the fermentation mash are of great importance. The pH range is usually 4 to 4.5.

 

Rate of Fermentation

The rate of fermentation depends on the temperature and the concentration of yeast. The rate of fermentation is twice as fast at 95°F as it is at 77°F. “However, the autolysis (decomposition) of the yeast is favored by higher temperatures, and the rate of undesirable by-products [BE1] increased; hence, it is usual to set 90°F as the upper limit.”

 

In other words, the higher we go above 90°F, the less alcohol we produce. If your ferment temperatures are from 5 to 15 degrees higher than 90°F, your probable loss of yield (alcohol) will be from 25% to 50%, because yeast cells die and undesirable products increase at higher temperatures.

WATER

CO2 gas can easily escape, and no air can enter, thereby preventing the formation of vinegar and reducing the yeast odor, which is partially absorbed in the water.   Drill a small hole in the cover of the can, and, with plastic cement, weld a plastic tube in place.

 

FLEXIBLE, UNBREAKABLE PLASTIC TRASH CAN WITH SCREW-LOCK TOP, ANY CAPACITY, OR, 5-GALLON GLASS WATER BOTTLE

 

FERMENTER

 

Alcoholic Yield and By-products of Fermentation

 

1. The overall chemical equation of the conversion of sugar to alcohol is:

      C₆H₁₂O₆                               2C₂H₅OH             +                2CO₂

      (Hexose)                         (Ethyl Alcohol)                 (Carbon Dioxide)

 

2. The weight of products from fermentation of 100 pounds of sugar is as follows:

      Alcohol                     48.5 pounds

      Carbon Dioxide         46.7 pounds

      Glycerol                      3.2 pounds

      Organic Acids             0.6 pounds

      Miscellaneous             1.2 pounds

                              _________

                          100.2 pounds

The extra 0.2 pounds is due to the fixation of water in the formation of some of the by-products.

 

3. In general, the chief products of vinous fermentation are alcohol and carbon dioxide (94-95% of the sugar), glycerol (2.5-3.6%), acids (0.4-0.7%), an appreciable quantity of fusel oils (higher alcohols), acetaldehyde and other aldehydes, and esters. The minor products of fermentation are:

      Formic Acid              Acetic Acid

      Propionic Acid          Butyric Acid

      Lactic Acid                Ethyl Decanoate

      Ethyl Acetate            Ethyl Butyrate

 

4. Very little methyl alcohol is found in grape wine, about 0.15%. Methyl alcohol is not produced by fermentation of pure sugar. Its sole source appears to be in the hydrolysis of pectins. Pectins are found in grapes, commercial orange juice, and other fruits. The addition of several cans of orange juice is not necessary and may, in fact, increase methyl alcohol content. It is far safer to use a chemical “booster” such as ammonium phosphate-dibasic, or a close substitute containing nitrogen and phosphate. Calgon water softener is also a fair substitute. Perhaps we should explain that the reason for adding an ingredient to the sugar, water, and yeast mix is solely for the yeast to have “food,” but only in very small proportions. In other words, the ammonium phosphate-dibasic has the nitrogen and phosphate, and the raw water the potassium.

 

THE BASIC BATCH (5 GALLONS OF MASH)

 

There are a great many ferments, or batches, and trying to catalog them in all varieties would be a tremendous task. Therefore, we will discuss only a basic ferment that is reliable and gives optimal results time after time. Keep in mind that it is only possible to produce a certain percent of alcohol, 9% to 16% by volume, depending on the type of yeast you use (at the right temperatures), regardless of “pet” additions, such as molasses, corn sugar, corn meal, wheat, large quantities of juices, etc. Therefore, the basic ferment saves money.

1. Ten pounds refined sugar (always 2 pounds per gallon) dissolved in lukewarm (80°F) RAW WATER before pouring into your container.
2. One cup baker’s yeast. If this large amount causes raised eyebrows, read over “Rate of Fermentation” again. Also, according to the text, yeast multiplies most rapidly in the presence of a supply of air. However, by using a large amount of yeast at the start (one cup per 5-gallon mix), it is not necessary to start a culture of sugar-water-yeast and later add this mixture to the batch.
3. One teaspoon of ammonium phosphate-dibasic, as explained under “Alcoholic Yield and By-Products of Fermentation,” is a close substitute. The addition of this chemical booster will shorten the time the batch works.
4. After the above items have been put into the mash container, fill the container to the 5-gallon mark. The best method of eliminating unwanted oxygen, after the reaction has started, is to stopper the container and lead a hose or tube from the container to a can or bottle filled with water, creating an air or vapor lock. This allows the carbon dioxide gas to bubble off through the water, thereby preventing the oxygen from entering the container. Otherwise, if the ferment stands too long without an adequate “check valve,” a vinegar process could start turning the mix sour.
5. As stated under “General Conditions of Alcoholic Fermentation” and “Rate of Fermentation,” temperature control of the ferment is very important. Keep your batch within the 75-80°F range and never over 90°F.
6. Up to now, if the steps have been faithfully followed, your mix will stop working in about 6 to 9 days. Although the ferment might stop working in this time estimate, it takes several days more for the batch to settle. The best practice is to keep two or three batches in various working stages so you can allow the ferment to clear up, or settle, before running. Apparently, although this point is not to covered in the text, the longer a stoppered batch “sits,” up to a certain time limit, the better the yield. The reason the mix stops working is that the higher the percentage of alcohol in your batch, the more yeast cells die, until the alcoholic content is so high that all yeast cells die, and your mix stops working. Baker’s yeast yields around 9 to 10% alcohol; wine yeast has a greater tolerance for alcohol. Therefore, a cup of baker’s yeast (dry) for each 10 pounds of refined sugar is about the right concentration of yeast for our purpose. We are also reasonably sure that the distilled product from a sugar-water-yeast-chemical booster ferment will contain only ethyl alcohol, carbon dioxide, and distilled water at the end of a four-run process.

 

DISTILLATION THEORY

 

A simple definition of distillation is the separation of the components of a mixture by partial vaporization of the mixture, and separate recovery of the vapor and the residue; i.e., distillation is a method of separation and concentration based on differences in volatility.

 

The apparatus in which this process is carried on is called a still, of which the essential parts are:

1.      The kettle in which vaporization is affected,

2.      The connecting tube that conveys the vapor to

3.      The condenser, where the vapors are reliquefied, and

4.      The receiver in which the distillate is collected. Modification involving the addition of other parts to the still are introduced for various purposes, such as conservation of heat and to effect rectification. The condensed vapors, returning to accomplish rectification, are called reflux. In other words, a simple distillation rests on the fact that no two liquids of different chemical composition have the same vapor pressure at all temperatures, nor very often the same boiling point. However, every liquid has a definite vapor pressure at any given temperature. The various types of stills may be classified as pot stills, Coffey or patent stills, vat stills, and continuous stills.

THE STILL

 

STILL

There are too many variations of the four types of stills in our interesting hobby to attempt an explanation of each “cooker.” Regardless of type, however, our focus is squarely on cleanliness and the prevention of accidents and fires.

 

Keeping a clean still is only common sense and is greatly simplified if your cleaning begins immediately after the last run, while the metal is still warm. Use water to wash out all parts and keep the kettle well-scrubbed. Do not use soap, as it might impart a disagreeable taste to your product.

 

It is necessary to supplement the plain-water rinse by establishing the following cleaning practice at least once a month:

 

Dissolve ½ cup of salt in about 16 ounces of vinegar and pour this solution back and forth though the tubing several times. Then rinse thoroughly with water. This procedure is all that is necessary for the pot stills, but the reflux types need special attention to the cleaning of the reflux chamber and the “marbles,” or “helios,” etc.

SAFETY FACTORS DURING DISTILLATION

 

DANGER!! Recognize the fact that when distilling alcohol, we might just as well be distilling gasoline. (From a fire- and explosion-hazard point of view, alcohol is almost as dangerous gasoline.) And, while the mash is not flammable, the first and successive run distillates are. The flash points, or the temperature above-which alcohols will ignite and below-which they will not ignite, are as follows:

 

            51°F for 100% or 200 proof ethyl alcohol (pure)

 

            57°F for 95% or 190 proof ethyl alcohol (uncut)

 

            78°F for 45% or 90 proof ethyl alcohol (bourbon)

 

When you are distilling, the temperature of the alcohol will be well above the flash point, so be careful, and memorize the following:

 

1. Do not smoke while running a still.

 

2. Do not use an open flame if you can avoid it.

 

3. Ensure excellent ventilation. Alcohol vapor diffuses readily in air and will explode very easily with a spark or a flame.

 

4. Avoid using glass containers. Use metal or plastic only.

 

5. Never fill a pot while it is on the stove or near any heart source. Alcohol spilled on an electric stove burner may explode.

 

6. Never leave a still unattended. Hose lines may fail, or the receiver may overflow, spreading dangerous vapors.

 

7. Keep the receiver and its vapor low, on the floor, away from the heat source. Use a small-neck receiver so that if a fire starts, it will burn at the small-neck opening, which is easily extinguished. A damp cloth wrapped loosely around the tubing where it enters the receiver will help keep the vapors inside the receiver.

 

8. Never store uncut alcohol unless it is in the refrigerator. It is a potential bomb at room temperature!

 

9. Be sure all fittings are tight, thus avoiding vapor leaks in your still. If a leak develops, stop all sources of heat first, then fix it.

 

10. Have a CO₂ (carbon dioxide) fire extinguisher on-hand, and know how to use it.

 

IMPORTANT NOTES TO THINK ABOUT!

 

NEVER SLEEP ON THE JOB

 

1.      Before you ever attempt to run a still, find out where the electrical circuit breaker that feeds your hot plate is and mark it with red paint or tape. If you have to shut this off in an emergency, you don’t have time to stop and read the directory of the breaker panel. Also, you don’t read so well when a large fire is burning your behind. As you run by, you can give it a flip and get the family out of the house. You just might have time to call the fire department from your home if you are lucky.

 

2.      You often hear people say that they “have a really good run this time,” and they are getting a couple of extra gallons of product. There are only two ways to get more than expected:

a.       Your mash is of a higher percentage of alcohol, which is unlikely because the mash from baker’s yeast is 9-10% most of the time.

 

b.      You are running past the given temperatures, and you are taking all of the product before the stream steadies out. This will greatly help your volume of product, but it will drastically cut down on the quality of the product. Also, if you stop at the end of the third run, this will help increase the total gallons; but if you are doing this you may as well drink the mash, because the brain cells between your ears are gone already, so you won’t know the difference anyway.